The soy sauce that comes out of this is the real soy sauce!

Soy sauce, nostalgia in the kitchen. Nowadays, people can no longer see the real scene of "soy sauce". Every once in a while, my own adult handed over two cents, and even an empty soy sauce bottle, told the grain and oil store to continue a bottle of "secondary soy sauce." At that time, the grain and oil stores, soy sauce and vinegar were all covered in glazed pottery jars. The side of the wine, rice wine, etc., are all traditionally sized jars, and the clay is sealed with altars.

When you used to use soy sauce or vinegar, you have to say "沽". The inheritance of this name is too long. One of Confucius’s ten foods in the Analects of Confucius • Township Party is “drinking wine, not eating”, which means that the wine and meat bought in the market are not clean. can not eat. The word "沽" is the special word for the sale of liquid food in ancient times, and it refers to the sale of wine.

Put the soy sauce bottle on the mottled old wooden counter and hand over two cents - the favorite to see the salesperson with a bamboo measuring cylinder - the bamboo tube and the handle are made of a piece of natural old bamboo, the handle is very long, so that You can go deep into the large pottery jar with soy sauce. The salesperson inserts a funnel into the mouth of the soy sauce bottle, and then with each movement of the measuring cylinder in the cylinder, the right hand of the handle is emptied, and the black soy sauce in the measuring cylinder is accurately injected into the funnel of the bottle mouth. The left hand holding the bottle is also homeopathic, and it is mixed with the poured soy sauce column. The whole set of movements is skillful and beautiful, and it doesn't drop a drop. But at that time, the adults will explain - to see if the soy sauce is filled as much as possible in each cylinder in the cylinder, to prevent the salesperson from doing the weight. Ever since, the person who buys soy sauce always looks at the salesman's hands.

Looking back now, the life of the past market is friendly and interesting. At that time, the soy sauce was really soy sauce, which made the dish pure and delicious. However, today, thirty years later, the most inconspicuous soy sauce in the kitchen has been a thing of the past. Often, in order to make a dish, it is necessary to find a real soy sauce in the world.

The term "soy sauce" is said to have first appeared in the "Shanjia Qing" of Jinjiang people in the Southern Song Dynasty (now Shishi, Guangdong): "...the leeks are tender, mixed with ginger, soy sauce, and vinegar...". Therefore, it can be confirmed that “soy sauce” has clearly appeared in the Southern Song Dynasty, but it is still impossible to test whether the “soy sauce” in the Southern Song Dynasty has been widely popularized.

Fermented ripe sauce

Today's soy sauce is often referred to as “winter” and “raw soy”. Some people say that this is from Guangdong. It is because of the prosperous and popular culture of Cantonese cuisine that it has spread. However, in Cantonese, soy sauce has always been called “xi oil”, which is “soy oil”, and there is no “raw soy”. And the habit of "grazing". Another statement is from Japan, but it seems that there is no authoritative textual evidence to support this. In the food culture of Shanghai people, “winter” and “raw soy” are also known as “red soy sauce” and “white soy sauce”.

“Pumping” is actually the meaning of extraction, so the difference between “old pumping” and “raw pumping” is actually the extraction of the first pumping slurry (head pumping) and the addition of hot salt water in the ancient method of soy sauce. After that, the difference between the two pumping and the third pumping produced by the second and third reclamation is called the difference.

The soy pumping extracted by the traditional drying process, because of the addition of salt water during the extraction process, the taste is relatively salty, reddish brown, very fluid, non-sticky, and the sauce is salty. It is usually used for the flavoring or refreshing of fried dishes, and is not used as a coloring material. The soy sauce is most suitable for the preparation of drowning. In many areas in the south, such as Guangdong, Guangxi, Fujian, etc., soy sauce, fresh red pepper, and minced garlic are used, and a small dish of “plates” is prepared. Or a heavy mouth for use as a disc.

In Yunguichuan and other places, the quality of soy sauce directly affects the taste of every bowl of water on the table. Only the traditional process of natural brewing, the peppers that are roasted on the fire and ground into noodles, mixed with the same grass, aniseed, pepper and other spices, and then with the southwestern specialties Shallot, ginger, minced garlic, alfalfa, mint, etc., finally add a spoonful of sesame oil pressed with black sesame seeds, or pour a spoonful of expensive, can not meet the chicken oyster sauce - this bowl of water The taste can make the most common ingredients in the world become the most difficult charm to be abandoned between the lips and teeth.

Yunnan Honghe Hani people drowning, one dish and one water.

The soy sauce extracted by the traditional drying process, as the raw pulp extracted by the head, its traits are in different states due to the length of the fermentation time. For example, the traditional Wushi soy sauce in Guangxi Yulin, in accordance with the traditional brewing process, requires sun exposure and ferment for more than a year. It is said that Fujian traditional cologne soy sauce, fermentation and drying time will be nearly two years. In the long-term sun drying process, the temperature brought by the sun evaporates the excess water in the sauce tank, and in the passage of time, the mold breaks down the protein into amino acids. It also determines the natural taste of traditional brewed soy sauce. This old-fashioned color is black and bright, and the fermentation time in the past two years makes it viscous. It can be drawn when eating, and the entrance has natural savoury. Every time you extract the "head pumping", the rich sauce will fill the whole sauce garden, people's mood will rise, and the excited smell will also make people unable to settle.

Sauce Garden, continuing the traditional ancient method of brewing

Laobai is most suitable for the braised and hanging color of ingredients. It has always been a memory that must be passed down from generation to generation in the Chinese kitchen culture. And its rich sauce scent, because of the time and the brewing of the sun, is also incomparable and replaced by other natural spices and ingredients. For some chefs who are keen on private braised pork, and every winter, the soy sauce that must be made in Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces - the choice of the old ingredients in the ingredients, and the ratio between the sugar and the sugar are also secret. Home-based secrets.

I remembered Shaoxing in my early years, whether it was hooves or ducks, on the coal stoves along the river, using such a head to soak old soy sauce sauce, the scent can drift far away along the river, and its taste is hard to refuse - smoke and Water fog, awning and calluses. The old man with a squint under the felt hat, a glass of Shaoxing wine and a bamboo shoots, and a bamboo girl on the old bamboo chair.

Therefore, in today's supermarkets, countless additives, caramel, sugar, wine, sodium glutamate (monosodium glutamate), etc., mixed together, the "soy sauce" can only be regarded as "soy sauce products", but it is no longer Soy sauce in the traditional sense. We can admit the deliciousness of its entrance and the convenience of using fools. But for the good cooks, such "soy sauce" can't make the "taste" in their hearts - when the seasonings in the kitchen become standardized tastes, the "taste" will no longer be worth looking forward to. The mystery, food will eventually become the nostalgia of "this situation can be remembered."

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